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Ask a fisherman why he fishes, you're asking him the meaning of life. Right now the Cook Inlet fishery is in danger. Fish & Game expects only half of 13,000 commercial fishing permits to be activated this year. To be sure, stakes are being pulled. But visit Alaska in July and you'll still find beaches painted with boats, water dotted with buoys, fishermen setting nets. There's still thousands of locals living off the labor and thousands more like me swooping in for a summer fling.
What it is, we fish to escape. Sure, get off the plane in Anchorage and you'll still find a Wal-Mart, Blockbuster and McDonald's within a few miles. There's malls and movie theatres and traffic cops as well. And in certain areas the black-socks-and-leather-sandals tourists swarm like children under a piņata. But it's different.
| Right now the Cook Inlet fishery is in danger; Fish & Game expects only half of 13,000 commercial fishing permits to be activated this year. |
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In Alaska, if you can't see a snow-topped mountain from where you're standing, just climb a tree because one's in range. The towns may be American, but the land is unbound. Work the Cook Inlet and your office is a natural cathedral -- to the south is open blue sea, the edge of the world; east is a pine-lined shore with marbled bluffs; west and north is one jagged horizon where volcanic peaks give way only to glacier-filled valleys. It's awe-inspiring, even without the summer sunsets that wax the water pink, purple and gold for six hours nightly.
So the land itself swallows your heart. Stop by for a tour and you'll leave with some slides and maybe a souvenir. But go there to set nets and you'll leave with something new inside of you: the bite of purple morning air as you leave shore, the rub of the sun off the water at noon, the bitterness of salt water at midnight when you've still three nets to pull, the heavenly smoke of a fire as you finally return to the beach, and, everlasting, the power of knowing you battled the wild and survived to face it another day. It's an escape to revisit the year round, to recall when stuck in traffic or tenth in line at Safeway. It's a feeling that fills and lasts -- knowing there's still a place in this world to work with nature, feeling it on your skin and in your bones and, for once, fully appreciating its force.
Alaskan fishing, of course, is much more than stunning surroundings and wild communion. Set-netting in the Cook Inlet -- rated as the nation's most labor-intensive industry in the early 1990s -- is as primal an industry as you'll find. There are no hydraulic wenches or pulleys or levels in our skiffs to reel the fish-filled nets back into the boat. We work in twenty-to-thirty-foot fiberglass skiffs fitted only with a 55 Horsepower outboard motor, two-hundred-by-fifteen-foot nets, and the muscles under our raingear. Casting a net into the water from a small boat, reeling it in and cleaning it by hand -- it's the same straightforward labor natives used centuries ago to trap the same salmon run.
The Cook Inlet, a body ninety miles long and thirty wide, has the world's second fastest tide. So it floods like a firehose in a bathtub, ebbs like a spilled watertower. All our work is determined by this tide -- how we set our nets, how we pick them, how we pull them out. The challenge is to hang, handle and extract our webbed fishwalls at the same time an ebb or flood wants to rip our nets up-Inlet or out to sea.
It's man against nature in the simplest sense. Sometimes the tide is just too tremendous and there's nothing to do but sit and wait for our lines to loosen up. Usually, though -- or about 90% of the day -- the tide's just manageable that if you sweat and bleed, scream and roar, put your back into it and then your legs and your arms and your quaking hands, you'll be able to catch fish. The work is pulling a recliner-sized buoy out of the tide and into your boat with one hand in one second before it sails away. The work is attaching a two-hundred-foot long net to the buoy by means of a keg-knot before the groundlines tighten and the tide rips everything right out of your hands and downstream. The work is battling your boat across a net from buoy to buoy and picking each seven-pound fish on the way as swells knock you sideways and your lines jerk like swerving semis. The work is dangerous, and the work has absolutely no schedule.
| One false move can find your raingear snagged on an outgoing net, your body tossed airborne and then pulled underwater with the tide. |
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So much of life is spent trying to fulfill potential, to find where we'd be if we went as far and as hard as our full efforts can take us. In the Cook Inlet fishery, it's not your decision -- every fish day you'll learn exactly what you can do. Fish & Game decides when we fish and for how long, which means that when they say go, we go until the whistle blows. Salmon pulse through the Inlet like a mosquito-swarm -- without a schedule, here one minute, gone the next. Often we spend weeks setting countless nets and capturing only logs and bitterness. Then a run hits and we may work one, two, three and, in the past, up to fourteen days straight. There's no consolation for missing a fish period, so we go when they do. Hours on the water turn into days, days into weeks, a season into years. First you'll feel firecrackers in your forearms as they pop and bubble with muscle fever, then your brain revolts -- flashes of escape, quitting, demanding a return to shore -- but the catch is once you've signed on, for a day or a season, there's nothing to do but work until your boss or Fish & Game or the salmon themselves decide the work day is done.
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| Where Mountains Meet the Sea |
The mental strain, of course, is excruciating. Taking to the water means taking your life into your own hands. Now, set-netting doesn't involve one-hundred dead sailors each season like crabbing in the Bering Sea, but one false move can find your raingear snagged on an outgoing net, your body tossed airborne and then pulled underwater with the tide. One unforeseen swell can knock you unconscious against the hull. And one entirely wrong maneuver can kill your engine and leave you drifting in an Inlet that pours into the sea. So we work our bodies as far as they'll go, but beyond that we condition our minds to stay alert and aware, keep our brains from bailing out into daydreams while the task at hand repeatedly tempts us to turn tail and flee.
Set-netting requires a very specific skills set, one a worthy captain displays so well you can't help but imitate. These maneuvers and the right mindset are our protection against the dangers of fishing and the sea. There's a way to tie each knot fast and correctly. There's a way to position your skiff to absorb swells. There's a way to leverage five more inches from that cable-tight groundline. There's a way to pick a fish in ten seconds and another to fumble with it for an hour. There's a way to do every thing right and a way to do everything wrong. Immerse yourself in the skilled actions of set-netting and you can't help but spiral further and further into the moment, losing yourself until the rest of the world slips out of your head, down your back, and skips off your backside to disappear in the puddle of salmon guts and seawater inside your skiff. That's the focus required to handle a monster run on a stormy day, a congruence of thoughts and actions producing one ever-moving and efficient fisherman. It's an experience like no other.
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| A Skiff Returns at Midnight, Heavy With Fish |
And that's just it, there's nothing else like Alaskan fishing. At first, everyone comes North for the same reasons. They heard the labor was extreme but the pay incredible. They heard the sea spit gold if one only invested. They heard if you could do the work you'd win the lottery. Well, the lottery days are over, but the Inlet's still a nest of fishing crews. Thousands try their hand and never come back, but others stay and others return every season. They do so because while chasing fortune they instead found a thrill so flavorful all other pursuits will be damned come summertime. It's the humbling display of this planet's power and beauty, the real and immediate pressure to perform under threatening stress, the journey past all thoughts outside of fishing; this is the escape Alaska offers every summer. This is the pull of the summer tide. This is the hook of fishing.
a-diction.com
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